Take Ten: Fashion in Film
April 15, 2019
Costume design is an integral part of film production that can even transcend all other elements over time. What's worn by certain characters can deliver symbolism and personality while also influencing both industry trends and personal style, not limited to Halloween festivities.
Fashion predates film, but since movies became such prominent forms of entertainment, viewers are able to admire unconventional style choices and learn how they can wordlessly showcase their inner selves through fashion as well.
It's rare nowadays for fashion designers to involve themselves in costume design (unless you're Tom Ford and directing your own feature films), but I for one don't find it necessary to have CFDA prominence to craft a magnificent wardrobe.
I'm sharing with you all a few works that coaxed me into loving fashion along with those of late that have kept that love alive. Please feel free to send me your favorites as well in the comments below or via Instagram!
IN THE MOOD FOR LOVE (2000)
Director: Wong Kar-Wai
Costume Design: William Chang-Suk
Without a doubt, In The Mood for Love is my pick for greatest of all time. Set in 1960s Hong Kong, Maggie Cheung portrays Su Li-Zhen, a vision of picture perfect grace and poise in tailored cheongsam dresses (長衫) of the era. The constricting form of these dresses plays a part in the film's themes of emotional restriction while exemplifying the timeless beauty of the actress.
MAHOGANY (1975)
Director: Berry Gordy
Costume Design: Diana Ross
Thanks to my mom, Diana Ross fan extraordinaire, I was exposed to this legendary movie when I was just a kid and birthed my destiny as an appreciator of all things diva and dramatique. Miss Ross really said "f*ck it I'll do it myself" when it came to this film considering she designed all of the couture-level costumes thanks to her background in fashion design studies. There aren't even enough screencaps on the internet to capture all the glamour Mahogany had to offer the world, so please do watch the whole thing if you haven't.
THE FIFTH ELEMENT (1997)
Director: Luc Besson
Costume Design: Jean Paul-Gaultier
This isn't something they made... This is some JPG professional shit. World-renowned French haute couture mastermind Jean Paul-Gaultier took the reigns and made more than a thousand costumes for this sci-fi dream world. These looks have trickled down to other runway seasons further down the line, especially in works from designers like Jeremy Scott with Moschino and films like Valerian. Concept art for the outfits originally constructed for Prince to play Ruby Rhod were only revealed a few years ago, so I can only imagine how many more sketches were scrapped in the process.
A VIEW TO KILL (1985)
Director: John Glen
Costume Design: Emma Porteous and Azzedine Alaïa
You cannot discuss fashion without saluting the queen of looks, Grace Jones. Free-falling from the Eiffel Tower in an Alaïa jumpsuit really ended James Bond for good. May Day changed the course of what it meant to be a "Bond Girl" because she was mentally, physically, spiritually, and sexually stronger than any friend or foe Bond had ever faced. Jones played this role in Hollywood and fashion too, spotlighting both her talent and her androgyny at every turn that drove her to fame. The icon of icons.
FUNNY FACE (1957)
Director: Stanley Donen
Costume Design: Edith Head
Funny Face lends itself to be an induction ceremony of sorts into the depths of fashion exploration. The royal and elegant charm of Audrey Hepburn's wardrobe in the film is due in part to the tailoring expertise of Hubert de Givenchy who also helmed the design departments with Edith Head for Sabrina and Breakfast at Tiffany's. Whatever one's opinion is of Audrey, the mere presence of the actress in any film dawned a lifetime of style inspiration.
ATONEMENT (2007)
Director: Joe Wright
Costume Design: Jacqueline Durran
ANNA KARENINA (2012)
Director: Joe Wright
Costume Design: Jacqueline Durran
What do Jacqueline Durran and Keira Knightley have in common? They were both born to do period dramas. Durran has six Academy Award nominations for Best Costume Design under her belt for a reason. The fluidity in her gowns and the fairytale-come-true components to her designs are not something easily passed up or imitable. The way Knightley especially fits effortlessly into these pieces makes it seem as though these two were soulmates in a past life.
BLACK PANTHER (2018)
Director: Ryan Coogler
Costume Design: Ruth E. Carter
Upon watching this in the theater, I was entirely transfixed during the scenes introducing us to the unique tribes making up the community within the fictional world of Wakanda. Carter's in-depth video explaining the research efforts she took to entwine parts of respective real-life tribes in Africa with the futuristic developments of the vibranium-powered city (including a 3D-printed headpiece for Angela Bassett) was compelling and insightful as hell. Really stoked to see more in the impending sequel.
CINDERELLA (2015)
Director: Kenneth Branagh
Costume Design: Sandy Powell
That blue ball gown is honestly made out of my wildest dreams and crystalized teardrops sewn together. Everything about this live-action adaptation was spot on in the costume department, and I love the 1997 version with Brandy, but I am such a sucker for what Sandy Powell has done here. Cate Blanchett's wicked green throughout the film paired with her sickeningly sinister smile... Please I was only trying to survive.
HELTER SKELTER (2012)
Director: Mika Ninagawa
Costume Design: Tetsurô Nagase and Nami Shinozuka
Based on the Japanese manga of the same name, Helter Skelter is a psychological horror/thriller centered around the downfall of a supermodel as she struggles to maintain her beauty and sanity when a younger, prettier model threatens her spot at the top. The film itself is visually stunning, but the costuming embellishes on both the unhinged character of Liliko and the avant-garde fashion of Japan.
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