Spring 2020: This Fashion Season Things Got a Little Bit Bolder

October 03, 2019

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With the general public finally warming up to thinking outside the color-matching norms and dipping their toes into more artistically inclined fashion, the industry has kicked things into high gear with the prospects of newer, younger consumers (or at the very least social media engagement). It's hard to tell how long this rainbow-fueled uproar will keep, but I'm kind of hoping it never ceases. 

Getting the ball rolling... After a tough battle, I came to a conclusion as to who my champions are for each portion of this fashion season and of course chickened out by including my other faves at the bottom of this post anyway. 


NEW YORK

Marc Jacobs


Goodbye freakshow, hello chic show. Shelley Duval as the ringmaster of a traveling circus with Pierre Cardin and Sonia Rykiel at the helm of wardrobe styling must've been the idea ruminating in Marc's brain for this collection. A dare to all those who cower in the face of pattern-work, garments like this loudly encourage you to embrace it. 

Rodarte


Not all that long ago I oohed and awed at Laura and Kate's Fall 2018 showcase toting the likes of Danai Gurira and Tessa Thompson as modern Victorian mavens and now I get a sequel?! Heaven has found me. A star-studded cast featuring Kilo Kish, Yalitza Aparicio, Gabrielle Union, Alexa Demie, Helena Howard and a few more gems I'll let you discover for yourselves. The gowns especially help to paint a picture of an all-women reimagining of Alice in Wonderland I now desperately need to be produced.

Brock Collection


A recent trip to the Metropolitan Museum of Art led me to draw a funny comparison with the latest high-low fantasm courtesy of the Brock Collection. This painter drew up a scene of his sister and her friends pretending to be fair gentlewomen of high society by dressing up in gowns from seasons past. After a bit of disillusionment in their last few shows, Laura and Kristopher returned to their roots to curate a wardrobe fit for a Russian heiress or simply put: Anastasia (1997). 

LONDON

Simone Rocha


There's something about a lot of Rochas's designs that remind me a great deal of the '90s Goth Lolita trend in Japan although the true inspiration this season is deep-rooted in Celtic traditions. It's fascinating to see something appear as dainty as a porcelain doll yet ferocious and rustic all at once. This is an aesthetic mostly untouched since the passing of genius designer Alexander McQueen.

Huishan Zhang


A modern rebirth of Maggie Cheung's character in the Wong Kar-Wai film In The Mood For Love was brought to the runway in cheongsams, jacquard capelets, and sheer two-pieces too elegantly adorned with ruffles and pearls to be labeled as risqué. 

Richard Quinn


Couture at its finest hour. It would be a shame for these not to show up on red carpets galore. I barely have words to describe how I feel, Quinn's truly outdone himself. Would love to hear who you'd all picture wearing some of these garments!


MILAN

Versace


Donatella took those archive photos that are constantly reposted on Instagram and said we will make it even sleeker, even sexier, and even more desirable than before. The transparent vinyl raincoat, the boss bitch business attire..... Making a grown woman cry.

Ermanno Scervino


Yeah, this is the epitome of what you'd idealize as the Milan spring dream in womenswear form. Scervino has always been an underrated designer by means of beyond excellent tailoring, I mean, just take a gander at those immaculate silhouettes. The muted chartreuse and powder blue with pops of hot pink could very well be the new neutrals of the decade.

Marco de Vincenzo


If you've ever bought a food item specifically because it matches your outfit, your ridiculous quest for monochromatic perfection is now validated. How visually pleasing is this set-up? Wes Anderson, eat your heart out.

PARIS

Alexander McQueen


Sarah Burton has truly come into her own in these last few years of creative direction at McQ despite endless criticism hurled her way over the course of a decade. There's actually quite a bit of background as to what went into designing for this particular show according to Vogue so I thought I'd share an excerpt:
"She upcycled lace, organza, and tulle from prior seasons. She recycled and reinvented old patterns from both her and Alexander McQueen’s history. She worked primarily with linen from Northern Ireland and linen made from flax grown at a particular female-owned farm—a farm that had until recently housed livestock. She created damasks with the sole remaining linen weaver in Ireland. She created lustrous, light-as-paper linens with the sole remaining beetler in Ireland (beetling is a process in which linen is covered in potato starch and then pounded on a wood machine for hours on end). She designed embroideries of vivid, blooming endangered flowers for a dress of silk faille and an ivory suit. As with her Fall 2019 offering, Burton cut her tailoring from British mohair sharkskin, a worsted wool from mills in the north of England. Local, repurposed, conscious, artisanal." (Sally Singer, Vogue, 2019)
Like Singer, this was my favorite collection of the season and by far the one I'd most likely sell skin grafts on the black market to afford if I were so out of my right mind. That one pink feathery gown worn by Kaia Gerber is especially to die for, please bury me in it.

Valentino


Have I mentioned how much I adore Pierpaolo Piccioli? Opening the show is supermodel Adut Akech strutting out as a Roman goddess, dripping in gold. A myriad of feminine figures follow suit like a series of nymphs in colors mimicking a Mediterranean spring festival. 

Nina Ricci


Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh bring youthful charm to a near-century-old fashion house. This series, in particular, felt a lot like going gallery hopping in Soho or Chelsea. Every new room you enter is a chance to surprise you with something different, even if the artist is the same. The beauty of this collection was that it stood out without being perfectly cohesive. 

& MANY MORE...

(From Left to Right) Oscar de la Renta, Area, Prabal Gurung, Pyer Moss, Ulla Johnson

Rejina Pyo, JW Anderson

Mugler, Chloé, Thom Browne, Chanel, Louis Vuitton

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