Resort 2020: Better Late Than Never

June 19, 2019

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Spring and Fall are the most highly-recognized and regarded fashion seasons, but we tend to forget high couture and resort collections. Couture shows arrive in time for annual awards ceremonies and galas (Oscars, Cannes, Met Gala, amfAR...) and resort ready-to-wear is for all those summer getaways in Ibiza and the Hamptons none of us are likely invited to. As much as resort season can seem a bit like a house's forget-me-not throwaway wardrobe, some designers sew the extra mile to make themselves stand out year-round.

ERDEM

Moralioǧlu's Madonna-fied Belle Époque garments call for high tea and polo matches to the beat of Depeche Mode remixes. Utilizing Nigerian model Amal Tobi and Afro-Brazilian model Ana Barbosa further demolishes the stigma that black girls can't be dainty and gives those with darker skin a reason to add chiffon gowns and oversized bow decorated capes to their closets. This ultra-feminine designs also fall in line with the trend of milkmaid tops, puffed sleeves, and satin maxi dresses that have taken over Instagram this year.


MOSCHINO

Moschino as a whole is a hit or miss game and whilst the misses tend to strike every nerve, the hits can be a delightful can of worms. Packing away Christmas in July, we welcome a new take on early holiday cheer — Halloween in June. Having Suki Waterhouse run around a Universal Studios lot set up like she's Drew Barrymore in Scream (1996) followed by an onslaught of horror and trick-or-treat tropes prancing down a suburban road was too fun to pass up. Also, there's no way I could say no to Violet Chachki strutting down in Bettie Page x Elvira realness while spooking Aquaria and Pablo Vittar in the front row.


PRABAL GURUNG

Cotton candy Grecian goddess looks were my favorites for the designer's 10th year in the industry. Modern effeminate silhouettes are a signature of his work but the softer color palette plays off the Spring dip-dye and ombré trends in a more wearable fashion. A few garments also featured Nepalese cashmere which is a charming homage to Gurung's heritage.


CLAUDIA LI

This excerpt from an interview with Vogue regarding the collection and how Li views her brand's identity was such a treat that I had to share:

"In Li’s mind, her woman is the sort of happy-go-lucky hard-worker who goes to SoulCycle then a soju bar after. “She has a real life, she has a career, she doesn’t have time for a glam change,” Li added. “She has to look good all the time, but she has to be comfortable.” (Kim, Monica Vogue.com June 6, 2019)

Li's usage of childhood inspiration in the form of mom's spaghetti patterns, plush bunny ear scarves, and jeogeori (저고리) stylized blouses make for a whimsically elegant ensemble. A diverse Asian casting of models and fashion friends made the photographs all the more enjoyable to see.







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