Take Ten: 2020 Menswear is Super Cool and I Want Everything
June 25, 2019
I've never been one to be all that interested in menswear due to my own preconceptions that it doesn't stray far from the norm and can feel a bit repetitive. This season things have taken a turn toward the feminine and avant-garde styles I would've never expected to be draped over 6ft+ men and I must say — it's quite sexy. Although my personal style veers toward ultra-femme fashion, I really do find more androgynous choices suit me and I'm particularly into this mid-point that's come forward on the runways of a selection of designers I've pulled up for this post. I feel as if we've gotten a bit closer to what unisex apparel should actually look like rather than the utilitarian bores that have been labeled as such and everyone could get something out of these collections.
DIOR MEN
Kim Jones has crafted what I like to call "My Dream Boyfriend" in what could be the best casual ready-to-wear for men thus far. Upscale versions of The Frankie Shop's signature jumpsuits, echoes of past Galliano prints, organza shirts and blazers, sash-accented takes on the classic Dior grey suits, and universally flattering color schemes traveled down a room swallowed in pink designed by artist Daniel Arsham.
VALENTINO
Everything about what Pierpaolo Piccioli does has such a genuine, organic feel to it. Looking at this collection is like taking a peek inside what you'd assume to be his closet at home and then deciding to gift it to whatever nice young fellow he runs into at a local record store. The tapered trousers have versatility for business and leisure for sure and he gives you the confidence to give sneakers a go for a long day in the office. The pattern work designed by 70s album cover artist Roger Dean is ultra-modern and much like something you'd see off the next Tame Impala record.
BALMAIN
The pastels, the disco ball silver, the satin suits, the cyberpunk biology class goggles, and proceeds toward the RED HIV charity sum up a Parisian night hosted by Olivier Rousteing that deserves ten heart eye emojis. The late and great Prince would've mondo approved this collection and I'm jealous of whoever gets their hands on it.
LOUIS VUITTON
The vivid palette this show had to offer made me squeal with excitement and all the flowers were just icing on the cake. Virgil takes us on a trip to wonderland if Alice was an Alix and shows us the many wildflowers that grow in the fields of our childhood fantasies. A very cool approach to "stop and smell the roses" worn as harnesses and headpieces down the streets of Place Dauphine.
THOM BROWNE
Marie Antoinette's pretty-boy country club comes to life in an elaborate theatrical runway show. Exaggerated silhouettes are rampant including ballroom gown-esque shorts, thick shoulder padding, protruding jock straps, cocooning birdcages, skeletal umbrellas, and risqué mini kilts. This is the out-of-the-box thinking I love seeing translated into menswear.
FENG CHEN WANG
Chioma Nnadi of Vogue interviewed Wang and found one of the Chinese techniques she implemented in the designs for this collection,
"The designer employed what is known as lanyinhuabu dyeing, a method she came across at the annual Qingming Festival in her hometown. Made using a combination of soybeans, limestone chalk, and locally formulated indigo dye, the white and indigo fabrics are worn by people during celebrations as a way of paying homage to their ancestors." (Nnadi, Chioma Vogue Runway, June 10, 2019)
It's always a delight to see the ways in which designers weave in parts of the heritage into their work, especially with pieces so clean and structurally sound as what she laid out for us this season.
AMIRI
What we have here is the indie music man you meet while traveling to Prague and instantly falling for his free-wheeling demeanor and heart incinerating charms as he whisks you on the romance novel adventure of a lifetime — curated by Los Angeles designer Mike Amiri. (Tell me the first model doesn't remind you of Patrick Verona)
LUDOVIC DE SAINT SERNIN
In the midst of hot girl summer, the 28-year-old French designer brought on the wet 'n wild side to men's fashion. Not to shock my audience, I've included more tame photos from the collection but if you'd love to see an entirely see-through pink suit, barely hanging on towel hipster, and lots more skin ↝ be my guest. There is an anecdote about some old woman gasping in the audience that made me giggle as well.
MSGM
Norbert Bisky's prints were a standout in Giorgetti's 10th-anniversary show that toted the beautiful colors of an Italian summer amongst poppy prints, linen short sets, and a cast of damp puppy-eyed boys.
JACQUEMUS
Speaking of anniversaries, you didn't think I'd leave out Simon, did you? "Le Coup de Soleil" held on a bubblegum pink runway between lush rows of lavender in Valensole of Southeastern France might be one of the loveliest settings imaginable. The collection proceeded with the typical Jacquemus characterization of the gorgeous city girl (or boy) gone to the countryside for a much-needed siesta. All is light, airy, and refreshing in an attempt to escape both the summer heat and the woes of frantic society.
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